Two Sisters in Tulum: A tale of tequila and adventure
Over the last decade or more, Tulum has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in Mexico. When I learned about this beautiful Yucatan beach town in 2019, I immediately added it to my travel wish list. Unfortunately, that was also the year that the world was upended by a global pandemic.
This year, as we steadily inch closer to a new normal, I suggested Tulum as a destination when my friend and soror Chantel told me she wanted to take a trip to celebrate her 29th birthday! So, we planned, we packed, and we rode off into the sun on a new adventure!
“Good fortune is what happens when opportunity meets with planning.”
Pre-Planning
One of the trickiest parts of planning this trip was finding affordable flights. Our solution, as always, was to get creative. We ended up purchasing a departing Frontier flight leaving from William P. Hobby Airport and returning United flight coming into George Bush Intercontinental Airport for a price tag of $390 each (not including baggage fees).
Tulum is about an hour's drive from the airport in Cancun, so Chantel also booked us a prepaid, round-trip shuttle with Cancun Vacations Experts. Though I originally advocated for renting a car, I can agree that this was the best option for our commute. It was nicer and less laborious than renting a car or taking the ADO bus, and it was cheaper and less nerve raking than taking a taxi.
Photo courtesy of Kimm Conn | adventuresnsunsets.com
We also looked at a handful of hotel options—there are beautiful hotels in Tulum to fit any taste in nearly any budget. In the end, we agreed on the Na'ala hotel located in Tulum town near the Mayan ruins, as can be seen on this map by Kimm Conn. You can also check out her blog post "Best Areas to Stay in Tulum – Neighborhoods + Epic Places to Stay" for more hotel options!
Aside from the basics of accommodation and transportation, I planned one activity for each full day we spent in Tulum—a self-guided, fast-track tour of the Maya ruins followed by a tequila tasting, and a life-changing cenotes tour I found on Airbnb Experiences.
Getting There
Since the birthday girl wanted us both to be on the same flight, my first order of business was to travel from Dallas to Houston. My car—the battle wagon, as I call her—currently has over 110,000 miles on the odometer, so I didn't want to drive myself. Thankfully, I learned about Vonlane bus service from a Lyft driver I recently had (shout-out to Tammie!). Vonlane provides transportation to and from five Texas cities: Austin, Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston, and San Antonio. Categorizing itself as a "private jet on wheels," Vonlane is markedly different from other bus services.
Photo courtesy of Vonlane.com
I've actually never taken a Greyhound or a Megabus, but the stories I've heard haven't been good! I was relieved that Vonlane busses live up to their advertising; it truly is the business class of buses. After enjoying my complimentary snack, I snuggled beneath my complimentary blanket and slept through the entire drive.
I arrived safely around 7:30 pm, and—after finding a way to get around the fabulous Pride Parade—Chantelle came to pick me up near the drop-off location. After that, it was Chipotle, chill, and prepared for departure!
Night 1
Flying out of hobby and landing in Cancun was uneventful (in a good way). Our flight landed around 3:40 pm, and we made a quick trip through customs before leaving the airport.
PRO TIP: Make sure to keep a pen in your bag or carry-on so that you don't have to wait at the pen/form station before going through customs.
Once we received our bags, we went outside where our shuttle was already waiting. Also, the drive to Tulum didn't feel like it was an hour long! The scenery was beautiful, with views of the other Yucatan hotspots-- streaming past our windows.
Once we arrived at our hotel, check-in with seamless. The concierge gave us both smart bracelets, which we use to access the room. After settling in, we opted for dinner at the hotel rooftop restaurant. The food at Na'ala was very tasty! The wine, however, was not. In fact, we are convinced that it is not wine. Fortified apple juice? That's our working theory. For the remainder of the night, we hung out by the pool before heading back to our room to prepare for an early morning.
Day 1
I asked the concierge the night about the best/easiest way to get to the Mayan ruins from our hotel. He suggested walking to the corner store on Coba Avenue and hailing a colectivo, or shared taxi. Having traveled to Cuba, I was familiar with the concept. And, for comparison, I prefer the colectivo process in Tulum. There were officials with walkie-talkies at each major stop communicating with nearby drivers. The colectivos were generally charter vans with set rates which functioned in much the same way as U.S. busses do in major cities, with colectivos traveling on either side of the road and stopping at predetermined stops as well as by request.
So, after waking up and getting dressed, we walked to the corner store and bought breakfast there. After waiting maybe 5 minutes, we hopped into the colectivo and rode the few miles to the Mayan ruins. We paid a total of $2 USD each for the ride.
Next, we walked about half a mile to the Mexican Candy Outlet to pick up our fast track tickets. However, because we got to the park so early, there wasn't a line at the entrance gate! (There was a line by the time we left around 11:30 a.m.)
The inside of the ruins was breathtaking! The park contains more than 60 intact structures including several temples, a lighthouse, and some dwellings. There are plenty of informational placards in both Spanish and English that explain the history and cultural significance of the structures.
Though several groups were being led by a tour guide, we actually preferred the self-guided tour because it allowed us to move at our own pace, read the information about each structure as we went along, and take pictures without feeling rushed. Another self-guided positive: we didn't have to stand in the hot sun while listening to a tour guide!
After spending about two and a half hours touring the ruins, we returned to the Mexican Candy Outlet for our tequila tasting. By that time, the store was bustling with activity and our bartender was thriving on the energy! We had about 10 mini shots of tequila and learned the proper way to taste this fiery spirit: swish, swish, swallow, blow. Don't chase it! This allows you to maximize your senses and discover which tequila(s) you like best.
After buying a bottle of tequila each, we headed back to our hotel. Our original plan had been to grab lunch and then head to one of the public beaches near the ruins. Unfortunately, I received a call from my dog sitter and needed time to handle that situation.
Upon returning to Coba Ave, we stopped by El Capitan for lunch. The atmosphere of the restaurant was inviting. There was live music and excellent seafood. I had a half order of oysters on the shell, fried calamari with a delicious remoulade dipping sauce, and a shrimp quesadilla. The wine also tasted like wine! I had the house red, which tasted like either a merlot or pinot noir, but I didn't ask the specific varietal.
The rest of our day was pretty chill; we napped, spent some more time at the pool, and enjoyed a late dinner at Siete Fuegos. We tucked in around midnight and prepared for our final day in Tulum.
Day 2
The next morning, we caught a colectivo and traveled down the road a piece to the town of Chemuyil. Unfortunately, the colectivo stop was about a miles walk from the bike shop where we met our guides, but it wasn’t too bad. Once we got to the shop, we met our tour guides Marbin and Oswaldo as well as the two other ladies who booked the same tour. We biked to three different cenotes—natural swimming holes resulting from the collapse of limestone, fed by the current of underground rivers. The first cenote was basically a beautiful cave and enclosed ecosystem. It was probably my favorite. Small. Quiet. Private.
The second cenote was father away and featured an underwater cave and tunnel. However, it was also home to the most viscously aggressive mosquitos I’ve ever encountered. We enjoyed it for a few minutes and then we fled!
The final cenote was the largest, the busiest, and was also very beautiful! The water was cool and deep, and we got to enjoy a few light snacks before heading back to the bike shop to look over the many pictures Oswaldo took. This tour was, undoubtedly, the highlight of my trip. Our guides were kind, knowledgeable, and accommodating. The other ladies, traveling together and visiting from Germany, were also friendly, funny, and helpful. The time we spent with nature was as enjoyable as the company. I left feeling strong and happy if a little hot!!
We walked back to the colectivo stop on the main road and returned to the hotel for another relaxing afternoon. Later that night, we went to the hotel lobby for a mini photoshoot before heading to dinner at Kanaya Resto Bar. We ordered two-for-one margaritas, toasted the birthday girl, and had a good time.
Departure
After checking out, we soaked in the bohemian vibe of the lobby until our shuttle arrived. And, I have to admit, I was a little sad about returning to real life. Tulum was exactly the reprieve I needed. Though the first half of this year has been challenging, it felt good to celebrate a friend, explore someplace new, and just relax. My only regret is that I didn’t get to see all that Tulum has to offer, which is why I can’t wait to go back!
